Blues Society of Western PA - Newsletter

During interviews, many national performers often talk about how the blues are thriving in Europe and places beyond. Jim and I decided to fly the nine-hour trek across the “big pond” in search of the blues…

It was a cold, sunny day in late September when we landed in Prague. (Yes, Prague of the Czech Republic.) Some people travel to see castles, experience the culture, buy souvenirs and try the cuisine. Some look for blues. As globetrotters we always tried to combine all of the above (at least I did and pulled Jim along kicking and screaming). We slowly worked our way through winding brick and cobble stone streets lined with century old buildings that included old shops, cafes and many pubs looking for blues. Jim said that it

would never happen…finding “good” blues. I knew it would. Tucked in various little places on tiny, hidden streets of the old city we found little pubs and upscale clubs that most of you would really enjoy.

Our first stop was at Red, White and Blues. While looking for the highly recommended Trumpett Club, we had taken a wrong turn at the tobacco shop and another at the pastry shop. We walked for quite awhile and at the point of giving up, found ourselves standing outside a quaint, white washed pub that sat across the tiny walkway from a very plush hotel. We walked into what looked like an Irish Pub with green walls, tiled floors, pictures of jazz and blues players on the walls, and Koko Taylor images glazed onto the

wooden tables. Peter, the English bartender who had followed his Chec wife home to Prague, urged us to step out onto the heated, garden terrace. He claimed that the house specialty was Blues music and Cajun food. The rich sounds of the music were seeping into the Pub area and we were “itching” for a “good dose of the blues. The rich, engaging sounds that were oozing towards us had us expecting a band. We were amazed to find that it was a one-man show. The sounds of the “Bubs Mckeg of Prague” beckoned us in. The walls were painted black. Three and four foot

tall candles were everywhere. New Orleans lanterns were mounted on the walls, Mardi gras beads were hanging from the ceiling fans and lamp posts were stationed near that very awesome songwriter/singer/ acoustic player. We listened to strains of “I can’t hold on much longer. You give me a real good feeling…talk to me baby.” We felt right at home. The singer and the patrons that were seated in the room were “surprised” when Jim and I started to clap. I was won over when the man played Eric

Clapton’s unplugged version of “Layla.” The room was very quiet. The people were there to share a bottle of wine, sip some rich beers and listen to the music. The “clapping thing” soon caught on as the room filled.

We went back the next evening to sample the music of an energetic player who specialized in the songs from the Joe Cocker songbook… “Maybe I’m crazy, maybe you’re crazy, and maybe we’re crazy…” By chance, we were seated beside the owner, Loree Breitmeyer-Jones. At the break, I seized the chance to ask her a few questions about the blues in Europe. Originally Houston, Texas native, she had opened this club sixteen years earlier. My question to Loree, “Okay, what is an American girl doing in Prague???” Loree replied that she had been working in Washington, D.C when the Iron Curtain had fallen. She said that it was a “great time” for American entrepreneurs to get into the hospitality field in Eastern Europe. Her concept was to develop a high end product that had an American style pub-like feel with a menu that included the flavors of Southern, Tex-Mex and Creole cooking. The music followed.

“The people here are amazing! The locals are very supportive of live music. It has been a wild ride!” she exclaimed. She continued to say that jazz is for the more conservative Europeans. Those that love the blues are very supportive of live music. They are more internally entwined with the music and welcome American, Canadian and British Blues. The Blues in Europe does not have to compete with Country and Western music. The Americans in the States lean heavily towards that type and it dilutes the market for the rest of the music genres. The dark haired American beauty added, “There is a real culture here (in Europe) for live music. If you are a performer, you have to perform. There is live music, non-stop, seven days a week in most cities.” The venues are so plentiful in Europe that it is worthwhile for traveling bands to frequent the cities and towns in each region. The venues are constantly networking to connect with bands “on the road” to minimize what they pay and to reduce the bands’ costs. American bands can record in Europe for much lower fees than in the States. An added plus is that the monies paid to the bands are not taxed.

We stumbled upon the Trumpett (also known as Ungelt) quite by accident later that evening. Again, we had taken a wrong turn down a windy little “alley.” I knew that we were getting close when the sound of the blues was drifting up from a cellar window, filling the night air. I was drawn towards the music as if in a hypnotic trance. We circled the building until we found the entrance. Yes, it was finally the Trumpett. After paying a total of twenty-five dollars cash at the door (no credit cards), we gingerly made our way down three, steep flights of stairs into the inner depths of the old building. We first passed through the “upper basement” that housed a summer garden and several bars. Finally we reached the bottom floor (cellar). There was a suspended wooden balcony. We traveled so far down into the Romanesque, underground vault that I was woozy from the descent. The “club” had walls that were covered with stones. Arched ceilings gave the old, sagging ceiling a charming, quaint look. We soon found ourselves seated at a rickety wooden table. The stage was almost as big as the room.

Burgundy velvet was used as the backdrop to the stage. Turkish rugs were strewn across the stage. We were soon listing to the sounds of rockin’ blues. The tunes were heavily laced with unique contributions from the three guitar slingers and a very “driven” harp player. People flowed in, dancing to the music as they found a seat. This little “basement oasis” held about forty people. The waitress moved in time with the music. The band announced that they would be back in less than fifteen minutes. We were amazed that they took such a short break. A new set of players took the stage. The new singer sounded like John Pergal. It was a good, solid sound. The harp player sounded like a Johnny Rooster/ Perry Salati combination. We were amazed that the patrons refrained from talking during the performances. They were extremely attentive and showed the musicians their appreciation. It was a great night of music…a double header for a blues fan. As we left, I noted that sometimes we throw caution to the wind. How different the Europeans were. For safety reasons, we Americans would never experience the ambiance of a club three levels below the street with candles burning everywhere. There were definitely no escape routes…but that is what makes the experience into an adventure.

Across from our hotel we ended each evening at the Metropolitan Grill. The upscale, trendy lounge had twenty-five foot ceilings, black trimmed windows, and parquet floors. Lively, colorful murals of Count Basie, Miles Davis, Ray Charles, Etta Cox and B.B King covered the walls. The trendy, young audience was enjoying Mojitos, cosmos, beers, wines, espressos and cappicinos. Old timers like ourselves peppered the room. We all managed to blend in and enjoy the music. Each night they had some type of blues. One night a single played. He had a T-Bone Walker sound. The next evening a duo entertained with the mellow likes of, “The Thrill is Gone.” They had very different takes on the old standards of Blues. The last night, a trio entertained. They took rock songs and gave them a very interesting twist of blues. Yes, the blues is alive and well in Europe …even as far as Eastern Europe. Who would have thought? It was an added pleasure to see the “wonders of the world” and to experience a wonderful “dose” of the blues.